The DipNotes

A career abroad serving America in the U.S. Foreign Service

Browsing Posts published by Peter Kennett

Ok, I just about completed a wonderful 10 days with my daughter who is a student at the University of New Mexico.   Tomorrow I head to Tokyo for a night before continuing on to Singapore.

New Mexico is a fantastic “enchanted” state, not only for the wonderful weather and landscape, but also for the food which is a wonderful mix of Mexican and Native American.  When I am back overseas I am so happy for mail-order so I can cook up these authentic dishes no matter where I am living.  I’ll include a few links to my favorite online food mail-order sites later this week.

My visit to NM coincided with the annual Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta, one of the largest balloon events in the world.  Every morning, during “Mass Ascension”, hundreds of balloons all take off together and drift slowly over the NM high-desert.  In the evening, they secure the balloons to the ground, fill them with warm air, and then all at once they turn on the gas burners which lights the balloons up like giant Christmas ornaments!  This “Balloon Glow” is a spectacular event, and seeing hundreds of balloons all flickering brightly is a sight to behold!

Further north is one of my favorite regions in NM, the Valles Caldera National Preserve.  This collapsed volcanic caldera is located in the Jemez Mountains and protects 89,000 acres of wilderness and wetlands.  It hosts hundreds of elk and other animals, and the Park Service severely restricts human encroachment.  In addition to the Preserve, the area has the Jemez hot springs and Bandelier National Monument –  ancient Native American Anasazi ruins.  Techies can visit the Los Alamos National Laboratories, where the first nuclear bomb was built.

While I am away on assignment, far from America, its places like these that remind me what home is.

* Home Leave:  Home Leave (paid vacation time) is special leave time accrued while we are overseas.  We generally earn 15 workdays a year, so after a two-year tour of duty overseas we would have earned 30 days of Home-Leave.  Home-Leave is not Annual Leave, which is accrued at a different rate depending on rank.  While Annual Leave can be used anywhere in the world, Home-leave must only be used in the 50 United States (or its territories, if that is your home).  Also, Home-Leave is usually granted only after a tour overseas, but can be deferred to a later date with a waiver.  30 work-days mean that you do not use it on weekends and holidays.  As an example, if I had just completed an overseas two-year assignment and started leave on February 1st, 2010, I would be able to take off all of February and not have to end the vacation until the 16th of March!  30 days goes a long ways, and many members take a full 45 workdays after a 3 year assignment.  The State Department also pays for travel for you and your dependent family members to your designated Home-Leave address, and then on to your next assignment.  This is something to think about if you do not have a home, as you MUST take Home-Leave, and the State Department does not pay for lodging or meals – all of that comes out of your own pay check.  At least you do get paid while on these extended vacations!
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After my consultations I split my home-leave* up into some time with my family in New England, and then my daughter in New Mexico.

I went up to Vermont and New Hampshire and spent a week visiting my mother, brothers and sister.   While the foliage was just changing colors, I arrived just a few weeks before peak color, something I miss a lot from my childhood as I have only been home once since 1980 during peak color change.  New England is spectacular in the fall – and is my favorite time to be there.  If you think the following photos show a lot of color, this is nothing compared to what New Hampshire and Vermont is like at peak foliage!

New Hampshire on Fire

New Hampshire on Fire!

This is the old mill dam is located in my home town of Claremont, NH, and is a place I used to play around as a child.  Why I never drowned I’ll never know!  I would be terrified if my 10 year old child was using this area as play ground, but I guess things were different back in the early ’70s.  Most likely my mother just never knew!  Anyways, this was an old woolen mill and was built in the 1850s.  By the early 1900′s it was producing the finest cotton “Monadnock” style linen in the world; the White House was a customer as well as the Waldorf (Astoria) hotel in NYC, while in 1918 the mill produced army bandages and blankets for our troops during WWI. When I was a child it was a cotton label factory and was an exciting and adventurous place to play for a kid, so I stopped by just to relive some distant memories.  It is now a classy (for Claremont) restaurant and hotel.

New England Mills

New England Mills

While home, I was able to relax and get back into the normal routines again and go out in public without being nervous.  In Pakistan every time I drove past a parked vehicle I would turn my face away to avoid getting glass shards in my eyes from the impending explosion.  I watched every person on bridges to see if they were carrying an RPG.  It’s nice to be back home!

After 2 weeks in Vermont, I fly out to Albuquerque, New Mexico.

* Home Leave: Home Leave (paid vacation time) is special leave-time accrued while we are overseas.  We generally earn 15 workdays a year, so after a two-year tour of duty overseas we would have earned 30 days of Home-Leave.  Home-Leave is not Annual Leave, which is accrued at a different rate depending on rank.  While Annual Leave can be used anywhere in the world, Home-leave must only be used in the 50 United States (or its territories, if that is your home).  Also, Home-Leave is usually granted only after a tour overseas, but can be deferred to a later date with a waiver.  30 work-days mean that you do not use it on weekends and holidays.  As an example, if I had just completed an overseas two-year assignment and started leave on February 1st, 2010, I would be able to take off all of February and not have to end the vacation until the 16th of March!  30 days goes a long ways, and many members take a full 45 workdays after a 3 year assignment.  The State Department also pays for travel for you and your dependent family members to your designated Home-Leave address, and then on to your next assignment.  This is something to think about if you do not have a home, as you MUST take Home-Leave, and the State Department does not pay for lodging or meals – all of that comes out of your own pay check.  At least you do get paid while on these extended vacations!

Well, I landed in DC on the 11th of September, and checked into my hotel, directly across the street from the State Department.  It’s a decent hotel, but the meals are priced way above anything I want to pay.  Foreign Service members come back to Washington between assignments for a few days of duty called “Consultations”.  This is a time we can check in with our career development officer, meet with colleagues who we will communicate with at the new post, and take care of other business such as our bank, long-term storage, and any other issues that are best handled in Washington in person.  We can also take some courses at FSI if any are available during our transition.  I’ll be here for a total of 7 days, and then I’m taking a few weeks of Home-Leave up to my mothers home in Vermont and out in New Mexico to visit my daughter.

Tonight I just got back from watching one of the funniest movies I have seen in years! It’s a smart comedy from Britain and has the highest critic and viewer ratings of any movie playing this week – but sadly is only in a few theaters as the subject may be too political for our corporate cinemas. It’s called “In the Loop” and while the language is certainly rough, if you enjoy Foreign Affairs and British Humor then you should find this movie a riot. Those who work for the State Dept. will especially love it, as half the movie takes place at Main State in D.C..

Tomorrow I have to check-in with the State Department, update my contact details, and then visit my Career Development Officer. It’s so wonderful to get out and move about and eat at restaurants without the constant worry that someone may blow me up!

I just departed Pakistan and landed in one of my all-time favorite cities, London, and boy do love this city!    I’m taking an authorized “rest-stop” which is a free night in a hotel we are authorized to receive to break up long trips over 13 hours.  Since the flight from Islamabad to Washington DC fits that rule, I opted for a rest-stop in London.  Many Foreign Service members do not use this benefit, as you have to grab all your luggage, and haul it to a hotel, and then go through the check-in procedure again the next day.  But I always take it, which I admit is not as difficult than if I had pets or children to care for.  I also asked that my flight to Washington continue an extra day later, giving me an additional night in London (at my own expense of course, however I do receive the first night’s lodging and transportation to/from the airport, plus one day’s meals paid by the State Department).

Paddington Bear
Paddington Underground (subway)By the way – as I headed into the city, I realized that it’s impossible to think of “Paddington Station” without thinking of a bear in a large hat.  It just can’t be done.

Anyway, I took the train from Heathrow airport to my hotel, showered, and went to the West End where there are a lot of street artists and great food.   The city is filled with so much to see and do!   Later I walked down this one street that was lined on both sides by French sidewalk cafes and restaurants. I sat down and ordered a nice baked halibut on top of seasonal ratatouille. Man was that good!   The weather here is fantastic.

Later in the evening I saw the play “Oliver Twist”, which was surprising quite good.

The next day I spent several hours at Westminster Abbey to pay my respects to the tombs of Henry V, Elizabeth I, Charles Darwin, Isaac Newton, Charles Dickens, and many others in the most incredible building in England, which is impossible to describe. To call Westminster Abbey a “beautiful church” is like calling the Grand Canyon a nice valley. No words do it justice. It must be seen to be appreciated.  later I headed over to the Imperial British War Museum, which was a lot of fun for an old WWII buff like me.

Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey

I’ve scheduled my pre-pack survey, to show the shippers what I want stored (we have an overseas storage facility in Belgium), what I want shipped by surface (1 month transport time) and what I want shipped by air (2 days).  There are weight restrictions for each, with air being the smallest.  I will ship my computer, TV, and some clothes by air.  I still have a bunch of stuff that is Megan’s with me (craft room supplies) and I will place them in storage.  We will get those back on our next assignment.  All the rest goes by surface.

I am getting excited about my new assignment, and have been reading a lot, and watching some TV shows and a tourist movie about Singapore.  Singapore is noted for its unique cuisine, a combination of Chinese, Malaysian and Indian.  Anthony Bourdain has created two episodes about Singapore.  His shows “No Reservations”  and “A Cook’s Tour” both bid a great job of showing how unique this city’s food is!  Be sure to check out part 2 after this video is finished.

I also got my housing assignment this week, and I feel pretty good about the new condo. It’s located just 2km from the Embassy, a straight shot along the Botanical Gardens – which is located directly behind the condominium. The apartment is very well maintained with a pool, jacuzzi, sauna, gym, tennis courts, and BBQ area. My  unit is on the 3rd floor and has a large living and dining room with balcony, four bedrooms, three full bathrooms, a powder room off of the foyer, and a bright kitchen.  There’s also a laundry room and storage room within the apartment.  I will certainly have plenty of room for anyone who wants to visit!

There is a bus stop right outside the front entrance of the complex, making it very convenient to move around town on public transportation. It is just a couple of bus stops (or a 20 minute walk) from the popular central shopping area of Orchard Street.   I think I hit the city-life jackpot with this apartment.

The landlord will be renovating the apartment and replacing the air-conditioning system throughout, so the Embassy has arranged for me to stay at The Regent Hotel upon arrival until the apartment is ready. The Regent Hotel is off of Orchard Road an easy walk to the embassy too.  Sweet!

Peter

PS:   For those of you that are new to this blog, note that our overseas housing, utilities, maintenance, and all moving expenses are paid for by the U.S. State Department. They are just some of the many benefits of this career.

80s

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80s Night Poster

Poster for 80's Night

There is virtually no entertainment in Islamabad, and certainly no dance clubs.  So I decided to organize and host a “Back to the ’80s” costume and dance party.  The Embassy had a club, and offered to let me use their patio, speakers, amplifier and offered to run an outdoor bar and buffet.

I created a large poster, and pushed the advertising all over the Embassy grounds.

During the weeks leading up to the event, I downloaded ’80s music videos and played them at the club during happy hour.  And then on the day of the party, I was granting Embassy Access requests and saw that 78 foreign diplomats (many Brits) had requested permission to come. Word of anything SAFE and fun spreads like fire here, so my diplomat access list also contained names of Turks, Australians, French, and Kazakhs! I have no idea how a person from Kazakhstan would dress for an ‘80s costume party!   I even got a request from Nick Schifrin who is a reporter for ABC News.

After setting up my DJ station, I went into the club’s bathroom and dressed up for the night.  As I walked back to the dance area, no one recognized me, not even the staff who had been working closely with me for the past hour.  I found a vintage Apple t-shirt on eBay, some rainbow suspenders, a great head of hair, blinding white paints, and some shades.  Perfect ’80s Apple tech geek mixed with that ’80s dance floor hair.

The party was a lot a fun, and we blasted ’80s music until 1:am.  Due to a curfew we had to end the party at that time, but we were able to dance for 6 hours.  What a blast!

Me, doin' the Dj thing!

my '80s DJ outfit

In February, the weather in Islamabad was quite chilly in the mornings, but warmed up nicely by afternoon.  My garden was doing well, and I had continued harvest of broccoli, cauliflower, radishes and lettuce.  At work, I was now quite comfortable with my job, and my partner headed back to the USA on R&R.

R&R stands for Rest and Recuperation, and it is a Foreign Service benefit to offer us a chance to get away from stressful posts.  Many (indeed most) Foreign Service assignments offer R&R.  The more stressful, dangerous, isolated, or uncomfortable a post is, the more frequent we get an R&R.  For example, in isolated Fiji my wife Megan is entitled to one R&R during her 3 year tour.  In Pakistan (as in Iraq and Afghanistan) we get 2 per year.  My next post, Singapore, gets none, which indicates how comfortable that assignment is.

Those posts that get an R&R have a designated “R&R point”, and the State Department pays the airfare for a member (and his dependent family) to that point.  Those have family members back in the USA, could have those members flown to the R&R point, which was a wonderful benefit.

The R&R point is a large city that offers a comfortable place to relax.  For example, from Fiji the R&R point is Sydney, Australia.  From Pakistan it was London, England.  Alternatively, we can choose any U.S. State or U.S. Territory.  During our assignment in Poland, who’s R&R point is Rome, we instead choose Miami, Florida.  Another option, is to choose a point that is neither our R&R point or a U.S. State/Territory and the State Department will up to the cost of a flight to the R&R point.  For example, if the cost of a flight to London (full fare) from Pakistan is $2,800, then we could probably go anywhere else in the world, as the Government would pay $2,800 of the ticket!  For Megan, who’s R&R is Sydney, the cost is only $600, so she is quite limited as to where she can go from Fiji.  For this reason, we’ll probably do our R&R back to the USA.

My co-worker went on R&R back to her home state of Florida, and so I ended up running the office alone.  It was not too bad, and offered me a chance to learn many of the duties that she alone had been responsible for.  I needed this experience as I will be the sole Office Manager when I get to Singapore.

The day to day life in Islamabad remained unchanged.   My daily routine consists of taking an armored vehicle to work, working 12-14 hours, and then heading home in time to watch an hour’s worth of TV before heading to bed.  With my co-worker gone, I worked 7 days a week.  Exhausting, but I really can use the overtime, which approached 30 additional hours a pay period.  My paycheck is now triple what it was in Washington – but almost all of it was being used for our daughter’s college tuition.

I will take my first R&R at the end of March.  Until then, life drags on here in Islamabad.

I am working on my next assignment out of here and it was supposed to be Ecuador, but the incumbent decided to extend her assignment for 6 months, which puts a huge dent in my plan to hook back up with Megan in 2011. I could still go there, but then I would have to wait an additional 6 months before I would be reunited with my better half – so I decided to take a different assignment. The choices were slim, since all the other assignments had already been taken, but I was able to get Singapore. It will be a welcome change from here!

In addition to Singapore being much closer to Megan, they told me that they want me there as soon as possible, and the State Department has agreed to let me leave here 1 month early and still get my two R&Rs (free vacation trips). I now leave Pakistan in September, 2009.

Singapore – great food, low crime, travel opportunities - should be a fun assignment!  Singapore is one of four remaining true city-states in the world. A city-state is a sovereign nation onto itself, that fits entirely into a city. The other three are Monaco, San Marino and Vatican City. The city is located at the tip of Malaysia, about half way between India and Australia. It’s larger neighbors include Thailand and Indonesia. Vietnam is a two hour flight.

English is the main spoken language, so I will not be getting language training.

Singapore’s economy is close to what the United States had in the early 20th century. Huge exports, while heavy taxes on imports. The bulk on the government’s budget is paid by import and export taxes, so individual income tax is low. It’s ports are one of the busiest in the world, and unemployment stands at 1.7%. Cars are expensive, and driving during business hours is heavily taxed, so it’s internal transportation system is fantastic.

Criminal punishment is quick, and severe, making Singapore one of the world’s safest cities to live in. But they have also criminalized a lot of small things in the interest of keeping the city clean and healthy. Fines are given for spitting in public, all pornography, public drunkenness, sleeping on public property, riding a bike across the street, and many many more. Drug laws are extreme – with death being a popular way to deal with drug dealing and smuggling. First offense. But the city is also ranks at the #1 spot by the UN for not having any slums, and you walk in any area of the city at 3AM with no worry.  Everyone has health care, and unemployment is less than 2%.

The government is a parliamentary democracy, and is a multi-religious country, with a slight majority (51%) practicing Buddhism and Taoism. About 15% practice Christianity, and Muslims constitute 14%. About 15% of the population has declared no religious affiliation. While multi-religious, they have complete freedom of religion, as proselytizing is illegal, including unsolicited distribution of religious materials. The effects of this religious tolerance means that cross-cultural violence is rare, and national holidays include  popular festivals from many religions.

Singaporean cuisine is an example of diversity and cultural mix, with a fusion of Chinese, Indian, Malay and Tamil foods. Chinese food stalls introduce indigenous Malay ingredients or cooking techniques, and Singapore cuisine has been a major tourist attraction. The country has a tropical rain forest climate, and sits just 80 miles north of the equator, so there are no distinct seasons.

I think I could enjoy this place… but as always, I don’t want to get too excited until the wheels are up. Like the military, nothing is absolute until I’m there. But as of today, this is my most likely next assignment.

Last night, I awoke at about 4:10 am, when I heard a click sound.    It was that sound an old alarm clock makes when it attempts to go off, but you didn’t turn the alarm on.  Click.  That’s was it, but it was enough to wake me up.

I immediately look at the clock, which is how I knew it was 4:10 am.   Seeing that the alarm was on, and that I still had almost two hours to go before it would go off, I laid back down and tried to fall asleep.  I did, however, wonder what the click was…  As I started to think more clear, I realized that my electronic alarm clock doesn’t “click” – so something else must have made it.. but what?

It was dead quiet, and totally dark.  4:12 am .. and I’m laying in bed, sprawled out on my back. getting cozy.

Then, it seemed someone had grabbed the foot of my bed and began to rock it forward and back.  It was quite violent; enough to make me think someone was in the room with me – which scared me briefly.   It wasn’t long, maybe 3 seconds later, that I began to realize that “This must be what an earthquake feels like”!  I had never experienced one before, but I had heard on the local news of a minor tremor the night before – which I had slept through.

Now the rocking was quite consistent, back and forth, not side to side.  I held on to the mattresses and enjoyed the ride – waiting to see if it would get worse and if so, I would have to run to the door frame. It didn’t increase.    Back and forth.  Rocking.  I did hear, very slightly, a low base rumble.  It was like someone was driving a train down the road – but the sound was extremely deep and faint.  I live near a steep mountainside so I thought for a moment that a landslide was coming down, but that never happened either.   At that same time all the crows in the trees outside my house took off and began to squawk – if that’s what you call it..  It sounded like Hitchcock’s “The Birds” outside.  Very creepy indeed.

So this short event lasted about 10 to 12 seconds and after a few minutes the event was reported by the USGS as being located in the Hindu Kush region of Afghanistan and there where no reported damage or injuries in Pakistan.

Here’s a link:  http://earthquake.usgs.gov/eqcenter/recenteqsww/Quakes/us2009bkcf.php#details

I wonder how many of these I will get while here?

I met my new housekeeper tonight, and his wife and son. He will come by twice a week to do some light housework, which I can use since I am now working about 12 hours a day, 6 days a week. He had worked for the previous American at this house, and works for our Management consular as a housekeeper and cook. I hear he’s a very good cook, both American and Pakistani, and since I love to cook I asked him and his wife to teach me how to cook Pakistani cuisine (similar to Indian) while I am here. Mmmm How much does a housekeeper cost? $6 a day. So I hired him for 2 days a week, but since I had two extra servants apartments” on my property that were empty, I am letting him stay there for free, along with free electricity, and hot water. Plus his family is now much safer than before.

He has a young boy that is learning English and is quite bright. His school has no computers so they are teaching kids about computers by only reading about them. I’d like to find an old cheap iMac on-line – something in the $50-$75 range and give it to him. Anything is better than nothing at all – and there is no way his family will ever be able to buy any sort of computer. I figure if he can learn to type and use a computer, his chances for job will be a lot better than his dad.

Here’s a fun story.. I have been in this house now for 5 days, and every night I made extra food for my night guard. I have two guards who live in in two of the remaining servants quarters. They cook outside on a nasty grill and have virtually no concept of food sanitation.

So this week I made New Mexican Green Chile Stew (vegan), Spaghetti with home made chunky tomato and mushroom sauce (Vegan), and last night was Southwest Chile made with ground turkey served over green chile corn bread. I gave him a plate and he was so thankful and happy.

Tonight, I told my housekeeper (name withheld for his security) that I was making Southwest Chicken Chowder and would give my guard a bowl.   My housekeeper (who speaks fluent English) told me I should not feed them, because they will not eat anything I make. I told him that have been feeding them all week, and they enjoyed it.  The housekeeper, who knows the guards well from working here before, told me that “no, they throw the food away” but will not refuse my offer because that is rude. I asked him why, and was told that the guards are “old school” and feel that Americans do not eat proper and eat dirty things, so they could never eat our cooking.

Then my housekeeper laughed and said that the guards have no brain, since we buy all our food from the local (Muslim) markets and stores. There is no pork in this country. And then he smiles and says “have you seen how THEY cook? And they call YOU dirty?”

So tonight, just to be sure, I asked my housekeeper to go out and ask the guards if they would eat some Chicken soup, with no pork. I specifically wanted to know if he would throw away my food, and if so, I would not bother feeding him again.  He came back and said that the guard claimed that he would indeed throw my food away, and will never eat anything I cook.  So no New Mexican Southwest Chicken Corn Chowder for them!  Oh – the guards did, however, ask if they could have an extra 500 Rupees ($6.50) a month for tea!

OK, on a better note: Back in August when I got this assignment, I wrote the Embassy and told them that I wanted any sized home as long as it had a big yard for a vegetable garden. So I get here and I am offered this home, which is really quite nice, but it has a huge back yard, in addition to the lush flower gardens in front. There’s also banana, pear and mango trees. So I also hired the Embassies gardener (again, name withheld), and two others to take care of this property. I then told him that I wanted to dig up a portion of my back yard for a large vegetable garden, so that he and I, and our housekeeper’s family can share in the bounty of fresh food. He was shocked at first, but then elated. It seems that I am the first and only American here who has offered to grow food. Everyone else just wants grass and flowers. I had had some seeds with me from the USA, and gave them to him. There is no translation for Acorn Squash or Zucchini in Urdu, as these things are not native, and have never been imported. I will help with those items, I told him. But the Roma tomatoes, Romaine lettuce, sweet corn, carrots, peppers, onions etc.. they all know those!

So I come home two days ago and I see that our large plot has been tilled, and fertilized. But as I get home tonight, I see someone out back working in the dark. It’s the gardener working in the vegi plot. As I walk out I see what they are doing, I see dozens of young plants already in the ground! Winter crops he explains. My seeds are summer crops, so he went out and bought cauliflower, broccoli, radishes, and who knows what else. I have to get the list translated. But he was smiling, and was so happy working in a garden other than flowers.

That’s when I dragged a large box that came in the mail today. I had gone on Ace Hardware’s on-line store and ordered a shiny new set of garden tools, work gloves, and a pruning set. I gave them to him and it was like watching a kid open presents at Christmas. He was so happy and gleaming. As I turned away to head back into the house, he runs up and tells me that he is going to now plant many more flowers around the house and he wanted to show me exactly what he would plant. He opens up a folded booklet of flowers from a local florist and starts to point at dozens of assorted flowers, from pansies to petunias. I told him that I couldn’t afford that many flowers, and he stops me and says that he will get all these from cuttings and extras at the Embassy (read – that any way you wish). “No money” he says. So now I have a very happy gardener who is going out of his way to decorate my yard (like it needs it!), while I’m just happy to have some fresh broccoli. I just hope he can keep the monkeys away! My house is right next to some steep mountain hills, part of the Himalayas just an hour or so from Kashmir.  I have monkeys in my yard and they keep steeling my bananas!

If this country was not in the sad state of affairs it’s in now, this would have been a great assignment for a family.  I wish I could post a Google map of my home, but the threat to my life here is too great to pinpoint exactly where I live.  Crazy place here.

Pakistani Suicide-hotline

Suicide Hotline -Al-Qaeda style

This was displayed in my office when I arrived.

The Regional Security office (where I work) is filled with Diplomatic Security Agents who constantly research and analyze the security threats around the Embassy and our host country.  They also provide protection to visiting Government personnel.  With all the terrorism here, it is no wonder they have a warped sense of humor, as the following cartoon demonstrates.

After the FACT Training, I headed home to visit my family in Vermont and New Hampshire.  After a week, I flew back to Washington to catch my flight to London, where I’ll spend two days resting.  My office partner in Islamabad warned me that the pace was very high in Islamabad, and I had better get rested up before arrival.  I’m took her advice!

I had a good time in in London, and took in two plays; Chicago and Lion King. I also downed a ton of street food in the West End, and drank a bit too much cider and mulled wine. It was quite cool here – with that damp air that bites through your clothes. After I landed at Heathrow I took a train downtown to Paddington Station. As soon as I left the train and walked the streets, I was struck by the air that has that characteristic London smell – a base of diesel, mixed with ginger, soy and frying oil. Then add some fresh fruit from the open fruit stands and a splash of tandori, doner kebap, fried fish and chocolate. Mix it with a lot of humidity and a light misty rain and add some floating cigarette smoke and you have the perfume of London. Mmmm. After 3 days I boarded Pakistani Air and flew off to Islamabad.

What a trip. There were 3 white dudes on a packed 777 full of people who look like the guys you see on TV blowing themselves up. It’s hard not to stereotype, so when when three guys got up at the same time and stood next my seat for no apparent reason I took my headphones off and unbuckled my seat belt. They then waited… and waited…. until someone came out of the bathroom and then the three guys became two. I didn’t sleep on that trip.

Dinner was either a “Pakistani” dinner or “Chicken or Beef”. I asked, and was told the Paki meal was chicken curry. I looked up and saw an old lady, maybe 70, enjoying it, so in the spirit of adventure I ordered the Pakistani meal. The tray had chicken curry, white rice, and some sort of custard pudding. Oh yeah.. a regular bread roll too. Before I braved the curry I decided to play it safe and eat some rice. My God! The plain white rice was hotter than New Mexican jalapeños! My mouth was burning and I downed a full can of coke to little effect. I rubbed my tongue on the bread and forgo the rest of the meal. How can any human eat stuff that hot? The “hot” Indian / Pakistani food you find in the U.S.A. must leave a lot of Pakistanis disappointed.

As soon as the wheels hit the pavement, and the plane was careening at over 150 miles an hour down the runway, everyone jumped up, grabbed their stuff from the overhead compartments and ran to the door. The mob in the isles was unreal. The plane was still speed along and at every bump, the crowd would sway over and crush people in their seats. You could just make out the faint voice of a steward politely asking passengers to “remain in their seats until the captain turns the seat-belt light off”. Not a chance in Hell.

When we got to the terminal, the luggage belt was way too short, so after about 1 minute it was full of suitcases, bags, boxes, loose clothing and the occasional kitchen appliance – which must have escaped from the various grocery bags torn to shreds on the belt. Then the belt would jam, and we waited for several minutes for it to start moving again, only to repeat the whole thing over and over again. It took an hour to get my first suitcase, and another 20 minutes for the second. Meanwhile everyone (over 300) was crowded around the small belt three rows deep, trying to get a view of their belongings. My case made two trips around before I could get it off the belt. To make this more exciting, smoking was allowed in the terminal so the room, with no ventilation, was a wretched collection of body odor and cigarettes. How I longed for the pleasure of that London smell again.

I finally made it to Islamabad. Due to the recent increase in terrorism here, no one is allowed to stay in hotels. Therefore I have been put into a large 5 bedroom house with two other diplomats until my permanent house is vacated by the outgoing FSO. That should be around the middle of November.

The Embassy is situated in a large diplomatic compound, well set back from the main roads, and houses many Embassies from the Indians to the Brits.

I talked to the current occupant of my permanent home today.   He said it will be about a 20 minute ride to work. It is situated in some beautiful hills north of the city, and is quite a large place with a good sized back yard. The servants quarters are attached to the back of the house, and have 5 separate rooms. I gave two rooms to my armed security guards so they can live in the safety and comfort of my home compound. Otherwise they would have to live out in a rural village, with no electricity or heat. Having them stay here when off duty also gives me the added firepower should I need it – and gives them additional incentive to protect the property. I have no fear that a criminal would dare try to break into my house. The guards are each armed with shotguns which they carry all the time. However, I keep a watchful eye out for terrorism, and make sure I am an unattractive and difficult target. I want them to give up on me and search for easier pray – some other fool, less concerned for their own safety than I am.

I also will have a nice chef and his wife as a housekeeper, whom I will I hire for 2 days a week. They were working at the residence for several years and I will also let them stay in two other servant rooms for free, which they really appreciated. They have a small baby and needed a place to stay as their other home is being demolished.

The Embassy transports me around in an up-armored vehicle for safety.  Getting to/from work should be fine.

My boss has a with a thick Boston accent and is an avid Red Sox fan. My coworkers are quite nice too, and none are workaholics. I think I’ll get along great with these folks.

I think I’ll stay home this weekend, and if nothing dramatic happens by next week, I want to head to a local market and price some Persian carpets. I’ll post some pics, as soon as I get a camera! Megan took ours to Fiji with her.

Now that I have some time (and rest!) here’s the details of my final day at the track.

I completed the last day of training, and now feel really paranoid when driving! We started the day at 7:30AM in a gentle rain – so we knew the track would be slippery. Just what we needed!

I strapped in, and proceeded to drive down the road and was passed by a few cars that made me nervous – but they were just other normal traffic. Then I saw an ambulance on an overpass. It was just parked up there, when suddenly it flashed it’s emergency lights for a second as I approached under it. Hmmm… that’s odd!

As I turned the next corner I saw a broken down car with both the hood and the trunk open and a women near the back of the car, behind the open trunk. She then reached in and pulled out an AK-47! Since the road ahead and behind was clear, I gunned it passed her, while ducking down. I escaped that one, and continued on my way. Then a car came out from a side road and followed me for a ways before turning off. Just normal traffic, but I was now getting very cautious. A car passed me and as I looked in my rear mirror I noticed he turned into my lane and just stopped – blocking the street behind me. as I looked back up, and turned a sharp corner there was a car across the road in front. *BLEEP*! I started to slow down to reverse when I remembered that the car behind me was blocking that route. I immediately stepped on it and got ready to ram the car in front, lining up my car’s frame with the terrorist’s rear tire. Since there were instructors in the cars, I didn’t hit it but just stopped in front of the car and told my instructor what I was about to do. He agreed it was the best solution, and asked me to now drive around the obstruction and continue.

I drove for a ways, watching other traffic and then saw a parked car ahead in my breakdown lane. It was just sitting there and when I passed I saw a guy on a cell phone. Nothing unusual – normally. But I feared that this was another setup, as the caller was watching me, not just talking on the phone. As I came to the crest of a hill there were two cars blocking the road and three guys started shooting at me! I screeched to a stop and slammed the car into reverse, and started to drive fast back down the road behind me. Boom! An RPG went off and hit the road the road in front of me, causing a huge explosion and sparks 30 feet in the air! I kept driving back, over the hill, around corners and back to that parked car. I saw the guy jump out and reach for a gun, so I kept speeding passed, getting ready to ram him if he pulled out. But I got buy and heard a lot of gunfire as I sped by in reverse. My pulse was beating like crazy! I got around another corner, and quickly turned my car around and sped off!

As I got back near our classroom a women was standing along the road. I kept my eyes on her! Nothing happened so I continued into the class area. It was over! I survived!

Then my instructor asked me if I had seen a gunman on a roof near that women or the ice chest sitting along the road. “No!” I replied – I never saw them. With my eyes focused on the women I missed the roadside bomb and gunman! They never set it off, but if that was real I would have been dead. I have to learn to keep scanning around and not get fixated on one threat.

Other than that I did well, and I have a lot of praise for the professionalism and skill of those instructors. They were FIRST RATE and rank up ther with the best instructors I have ever had. What a course!

Today I spent the whole day on the race track driving a Ford Crown Victoria in a very exciting way that would have my mother tossing her cookies! What a BLAST!

We started out on skid track, a smooth paved track loop that was watered down to allow us to practice getting out of skids and slides. This was like “doing donuts in the snow’ on steroids. It took every bit of self-control to follow my instructors commands and continue to accelerate towards a slippery curve that I knew I could not maintain traction on. Growing up in New England I am used to driving in snow and ice, so I did well, and had a fun time!


Then we went on the regular dry track which was not a big circular race track, but more like a large go-kart track with hills and dozens of curves and intersections. We then practiced controlled braking and steering at high speed and on sharp curves. Again, the urge to slow down on the sharp curves, some so violent that the other occupants in the car were thrown around in the back, was intense. Instead of slowing down, the command to “step on it” was scary as hell! And then half way into the curve, with my whole body being tossed towards the outside, the instructor would yell’ STOP!” and I had to stop the car as fast as possible without sliding into the other lane. The car was going so fast that as the weight lifted off the back tires they would loose traction and lock up, but the front wheels did not. This allowed me to keep steering around the corner while creating a huge smoke plume from squealing brakes and burnt rubber. So much smoke that the blue cloud would obscure the vision in the front for a few seconds after I came to a stop!

Next, we moved to driving very fast down the straight highway, only to have an obstacle in the way that we had to avoid at the very last minute. This was simulated by a cone in the road that I had to accelerate towards until my instructor would say “Right” or “Left” indicating which way I was to avoid it. At first it was easy, because he gave me enough time to avoid the cone without too much trouble. Soon he wouldn’t say anything until I was sure I would hit it – and then the commend would come out and I would swerve so hard you could hear the helmet of my rear-seat passenger smashing into the window. All the while, I learned to maintain just enough pressure on the brakes to slow the car down but not lock it up.

Then we practiced driving off the road and recovering back onto pavement without loosing control. That was easy for me, as I have done it many times in my life and learned to simply drive straight and slowly ease the car back onto the highway. Indeed, this is one of the leading causes of death on highways as drivers instinctively turn hard back towards the road and end up rolling their vehicles.

The we learned how to drive backwards – over hills and curves, and through a cone obstacle course! Weaving around tight cones is one thing, it’s something else to do it in reverse! The set up was quite realistic. I would drive around (forward) and then without warning the instructor would yell “attack – reverse” at which point I would stop the car quickly, throw it in reverse and speed backwards (at a terrifying speed) until we were clear of the threat and then turn the car around and quickly speed off.


Next we practiced a dead driver. My instructor would drive, very fast, and then steer off the road (literally) and slump over. I had to quickly grab the wheel and maintain control while moving my left leg over to his side and continue to drive. We pretended that we where being shot at, and that I must not stop. So there I am.. driving around the track at a high speed, from the passenger side of the car! Since I am so short, I had to release my seat belt with my right hand, and sit with my face in the windshield. The body of the “dead” driver prevented me from getting in his seat.

Then we tried again, only this time we simulated a frontal attack. I had to take control, stop the car, reverse and drive backwards – around cones, and tight curves – all from the passenger seat! Man that was TOUGH!

Finally, we ended the day with driving a car into other cars! We had a car set up across the road, virtually blocking it. We learned how to drive into the rear end at just the right spot to plow through with almost no damage to our vehicle. We did this both forward and – yes, you guessed it, in reverse! My class totaled 6 cars in about 30 minutes. To drive backwards into another car, watching the spray of broken glass explode across my rear window was exhilarating!

So tomorrow we put all these skills to test in a simulated combat environment. I asked another Diplomatic Security Agent who has been through the course before and he explained: There will be “terrorists” along the race track, armed with explosives, guns and RPG launchers that actually shoot things at our cars! Our car is wired with small explosives to simulate it being hit and damaged too.

I am beat right now – so I’m going to bed early. While it was a lot of work, today was one of those days that I step back and say “I can’t believe I am getting paid to have this much fun!”

Today I started my FACT (Foreign Affairs Counter Terrorism) course. This is a week-long course we take before being assigned to a war-zone. In the class today, we learned how to detect when someone is surveilling us. Then all afternoon we drove back and forth along a 3 mile route in town while agents were assigned to discreetly watch us, tail us, and plan an attack on us at a vulnerable point along our route.

We had to try and spot them, and document that we were being followed and monitored. We also had to document where along our route we were most vulnerable and show how we could change our routes and driving times to make us harder to hit. This was to simulate driving from our home to the Embassy and then back.

In the end we got attacked at the main spot that we knew we would, and had correctly spotted 3 of the 4 agents targeting us. We also incorrectly marked 5 others who we thought were watching us, but in fact were just regular people that were not doing anything.

- Tomorrow will be emergency medical care and disaster training. – Wednesday, we head down to Winchester, VA to learn how to use an assortment of automatic weapons. Megan enjoyed this part when she went to Baghdad! – Thursday we do evasive – counter terrorism driving training at Bill Scott raceway, also in Winchester. – Friday we learn about IED’s and go blow some cars up! Cool!

Main Pakistan Main Rahta Hoon!!! - That’s Urdu for I’m living in Pakistan!

I got my #1 choice – Islamabad, Pakistan!  I am scheduled to depart here October 6th. Woohoo!

The flight from Washington is over 14 hours, so I am entitled to a rest stop.  The original itinerary they gave had me flying to Kuwait and then on to Islamabad with just a plane change. I went down to the travel office and said that I would like a rest stop. The travel tech asked, “Where do you want to stay”? I never thought I had a choice..  I thought I’d have to stay in whatever city I was scheduled to pass through.  So I said, “How about “London”? He said, “Sure, no problem. I found out I could also have stayed in Paris, Frankfurt, Istanbul, or Dubai, but London will be very nice.  I really love that city, and the rest will do me a lot of good after the long training.  He then booked me a night in a nice 4-star hotel, at government expense. Sweet!

I emailed my future office-mate and told her that I was flying in on Sunday.  She wrote back and said that Sunday is their only day off – so if I don’t mind would I please stay another night in London?  Oh yah!  That would be excellent!  I immediately called the travel office, changed my tickets, and booked another night in the hotel!  Sweet!

Now I still have OMS training here at FSI – plus the Foreign Affairs Counter Terrorism course.  Adding in some leave and I do not depart for Pakistan until October.

On my second day in the Foreign Service, the very first thing that happened was my Career Development Officer provided us a listing of every available job within our career field and grade. This is a time of great excitement as we finally get a chance to see what our options are, and know that we will go to at least ONE of these posts. What we do next is spend a week or two researching each option, and then rank order them according to our desires. Here are my options for my very first assignment within the Foreign Service, rank ordered according to me preference from top to bottom:

  • Islamabad, Pakistan
  • Bogata, Columbia (Narcotics)
  • Beijing, China
  • Vienna, Austria (United Nations Affairs)
  • Montevideo, Uruguay
  • London, England
  • Hanoi, Vietnam
  • Berlin, Germany
  • Belgrad, Serbia
  • Caracas, Venezuela
  • Guatemala, Guatemala
  • Jakarta, Indonesia
  • Nairobi, Kenya
  • Panama City, Panama
  • Yaounde, Cameroon

All are all two-year assignments with the exception of Islamabad, which is one. I placed Islamabad at the top because Megan is on the way to Fiji for 3 years – and there is no way I can join her there. The small Embassy in Suva is just too small, so there are no additional office managers there except Megan. So, we’ll be apart for at least three years, but visiting each other a couple of times a year will help. Islamabad is the only assignment in that list that is only 1 year long. Most of our directed assignments are two years long – so unless I take a 1-year post like Islamabad, I would be away from Megan for 4 years! My next assignment (after Islamabad) would be a 2 year tour, so when combined with the 1 year in Pakistan that would bring my assignment rotation equal to Megan’s and then we will be able to go on our future assignments together. Also, since I would be coming off a hardship assignment I would get priority on choosing my next assignment – so I should have a better chance of getting a posting closer to Fiji.

I also would not mind the extra money from the incentive pay that Pakistan offers. This would be an extra 20% of my base pay for something called Hardship Differential (due to the extra hardship of living in a third world country), and an extra 35% of pay for Danger. Danger Pay is given at posts where there is an increased threat to our lives. So together, I would get a 55% pay increase for this year – enough to pay off some depts! Also, Islamabad is very busy with the “War on Terror”, so I will be working a lot of overtime, which will also help pass the time, while making the extra overtime pay.  By the way – i hate that term, “War on Terror”.   The sad truth is that many still believe that we can wage a “war” on the “acts” of terrorism.  You can not militarily defeat an act. You can, however, influence people that doing such acts will not help their cause.  The problem is that you can only influence those who are NOT terrorists already.  You will not change the mind of someone who has already accepted their own death for a cause. You must change the minds of those who have not yet been converted to find a less violent way to self fulfillment.  Killing their brother or mother, or any of their extended family only converts them to terrorism faster!.

Anyway, back to the story.  Islamabad is only 1 year long and would receive 2 R&R’s (vacations). I describe R&R in the “What is the Foreign Service” page, but just to refresh it is free travel to either the designated R&R point for this assignment (London in this instance), the 50 USA states, its territories, or anyplace with an equivalent airfare as a flight to the R&R point (London). From Pakistan I would probably be able to fly to Fiji for the same cost as a flight to London.

So I submitted this list as above – and now have to wait an agonizing 3 weeks before I know what the outcome will be. The good news is that no-one in my class wants Pakistan, so I stand a really good chance of getting it!

(coming soon)

About 3 hours northeast of our home lies the Marakele National Park, a wonderful little campground that is not very-popular, so you can enjoy the park without seeing too many tourists. The park is situated in the middle of the Waterburg Mountain range, near the boarder with Botswana. The 4×4 trails are virtually empty and it makes an ideal place for astronomy (I am an avid astrophotographer). The park costs about $12 a night to camp with your own equipment (Bontle Bush Camp) and $80 a night for a Luxury Safari Tent (Tlopi Site) with fully equipped kitchen and private shower. Megan and I stayed one night at each camp and enjoyed two very different experiences all in the same park.

The Bontle Bush camp is situated near a watering hole, and you get to camp out in the open, with nothing between you and the wildlife. The park is fenced however, and predators are kept away from this part of the park. It is, however quite a shock to wake up and find rhinos grazing about 20 feet from your tent!   The next day, I drove around and found the Rhinos that had kept me awake at night, and found them about 1/4 mile away – still gazing.

Rhinos at the Marakele National Park, South Africa.

Rhinos at the Marakele National Park, South Africa.

Through the weekend, we drove around and kept a sharp eye out for wildlife. This part of the park is very fun to drive around as you can spot wildlife in the most unexpected place. Like these Giraffe that decided to use the road for a few minutes rather than the thick brush.

Driving behind Giraffes

The park makes great hiding for the beautiful Kudu, one of my favorite animals in South Africa. This lovely animal is called the “Grey Ghost” as it seems to disappear without a sound, even though it’s quite large.

Kudo

The Kudo

Perched atop a rocky hill, I found 3 Mountain Zebra staring me down. I quickly took this shot before they bolted off.

Mountain Zebra

Mountain Zebra standing his ground

We drove around for several hours and then headed to our next campsite, the luxury tented site called Tlopi Site.  This site is located within the fenced predator area with lions and other carnivorous animals.  As you approach the Predator area, there is a push-button that opens an electric gate, that then closes just after you enter. This part of the park is the most scenic, but also a big more rough in places. There are 4×4 trails and a narrow one-lane road that climbs up atop one of the mountains, where the largest number of Cape Vultures in the word live.

As we drove towards the Tlopi tented site, we came across a large group of Baboons. At first, I only saw one run across the road, causing the guy in front of me to stop suddenly.

The road to the Vulture overlook

The road to the Vulture overlook

Then, I found them in the trees just a few feet in front of me.

Baboons in the Marakele park

Baboons in the Marakele park

We finally got to the campsite, and found the facilities very cozy! The tent is situated on a small pond at the base of a rocky hill.

Tented site at the Tlopi camp site

Tented site at the Tlopi camp site

As the sun started go down, Megan wanted to drive up to the top of the hill and watch it. We headed up, and got there just as the sun started to set. In the distance you can see the flat plains heading West towards Botswana, and in the middle the tiny pond we were camping at. The sounds of the night life had just begun, which I can not begin to describe!

Sunset at the Marekele National Park

Sunset at the Marekele National Park

I set my telescope up on the deck overlook the pond and enjoyed the incredible dark South African skies.  As an astrophotographer South Africa is one of the best places on Earth to capture stunning photos of the Cosmos.  Here’s a photo of my equipment, with a friendly monkey who was looking for food.  Perhaps the bright yellow end-caps on my scope made him think I had bananas!

My Meade telescope and a monkey

A monkey is interested in my telescope

Here’s two photos I took while in South Africa.  The Omega Centauri globular cluster on the left and the Eta Carinae nebula on the right. The globular was a single 10 minute exposure and the nebula was 15 minutes on 35mm Fuji 400F Provia slide film.  You can find more of my astrophotography at www.CosmicColor.com.

Astrophotos take at the Marakele national Park

Astrophotos take at the Marakele national Park

On May 11th,  I drove 14 hours deep into the South African Karoo, a region similar to western New Mexico to visit the largest astronomical observatory in the Southern hemisphere.  The whole area is very remote, and there are only a few places to stay.  The Karoo is semi-desert, with low rainfall, and the darkest skies in the country, easily ranking in at number one on the Bortle sky brightness scale (with #1 is the darkest skies on earth).  In the photo below, I drove our Land Rover high up on a hill to overlook the Karoo landscape.

South Africa's Karoo

Overlooking South Africa's Karoo

After driving over 20 km from the small town of Sutherland, we were in the middle of no-where, and had another 8 km to go.  This is where we stayed for 3 days, at a the Blesfontein Guest Farm, a delightful cozy, yet isolated place which contained over 1,000 sheep on a 28,000 acre farm.  Talk about isolation.. and dark!  This is an astronomer’s paradise.

Driving across the Karoo

Driving across the Karoo

We stayed in a guest cottage near the main farmhouse, which included an indoor braai (grill), and a sunken tub!  The cottage, called the “Cow Shed”, also had a full kitchen and the beds were lined with electric blankets as the temperature approached freezing this weekend.  In winter (June-August) they get snow, one of the few places in South Africa to do so.  Being an isolated sheep farm, you can probably guess what our meals consisted of – lots of mutton and good ol’ South African wine.  The price was about $22 a night.

The Cowshed

The Cowshed guest house

The town of Sutherland was built in the mid 1800’s and has one stop-sign on it’s main street, and about 10 Bed & Breakfasts with names like ‘Galileo”, “Galaxy”, “Andromeda”, “Kosmos”, “Jupiter” and others so you can tell who they cater to!  Most places even have telescopes for guests to use.  Our farmhouse had two, mounted in a roll-off roof observatory.

Southerland is home to the South African Astronomical Observatory (SAAO), situated high atop a hill about 15 kilometers from town.  The SAAO is now home to the largest single telescope in the Southern Hemisphere, the Southern African Large Telescope (S.A.L.T.).  The telescope was completed in 2005 and first light obtained in November of that year.  Although completed, the scope is now being used mainly for on-going testing, calibration, and fixing numerous mechanical and optical problems that are not unusual for a telescope of this size and complexity.

While daytime public tours are available, I was granted special permission to spend a night working with the SALT astronomers and engineers and have access to the whole telescope and control rooms.  This once-in-a-lifetime opportunity was the main reason I drove the 16 hour distance to get here.  Upon arrival I was met by Russian astronomer Alexei Kniazev who gave me a brief tour of the living quarters and then invited me to dine with him and all the other staff astronomers and engineers before heading up to the observatory. 

S.A.L.T. Observatory

S.A.L.T. Observatory

During dinner Mr. Kniazev gave me an briefing on the overall history and function of the S.A.L.T. obsevatory, followed by an indepth tour of the complete facilities.

The S.A.L.T. primary mirror measures in at 11 meters across, and is composed of 91 individual hexagonal mirrors.  Each mirror weighs 500 kilograms and were made in Russia from a material called Astrosital, a glass-ceramic material with very low thermal coefficient, which means it does not expand or contract within normal operating temperatures.   The glass was then shipped to Eastman Kodak for cutting and polishing, and finally shipped to the observatory for mirroring with a 100 nm layer of aluminum.

S.A.L.T. Mirror

S.A.L.T. Primary Mirror

The primary mirror’s 91 mirrors are arranged and collimated into a sphere, and use a Center of Curvature Alignment Sensor (CCAS) laser system to measure and align the individual mirrors into a perfect sphere.  The laser is situated within a high tower outside the observatory and is prominent in the photo above.  Every few days this laser is used to align the mirrors and 8 sensors on each mirror segment constantly measure each position and track that information back in the control room.  A computer makes tiny adjustments as needed through 3 small servos attached to the back of each mirror to keep the mirrors aligned.

Primary mirror supports, sensors and servos

Primary mirror supports, sensors and servos

The telescope’s most unusual property is that it is fixed in altitude at 37 degrees.  This altitude was chosen as it is centered on the Magellanic clouds, a key target to study in the Southern skies.  To track the sky, the telescope’s optical system payload, which sits 13 meters above the primary at focus, tracks across the mirror.  Being able to use any part of the mirror is possible as the mirror is a sphere, so there is no real center.  The payload tracking gimbal is able to move 3 meters in any direction, which allows the telescope to track an object for 6 degrees at a time.  This gives astronomers from 1 to 3 hours of track-time depending on the location of the target in the sky.  The gimbal uses a laser to measure the distance to the primary mirror as it tracks, and moves the payload inward or outward as needed to keep the optics in focus.  To prevent field-rotation, the platform also can rotate as the sky revolves overhead.  The payload, and tracking platform combined weigh just over 5 tons but can track to accuracy of 5 microns!

The camera and gimbal for the S.A.L.T.

The camera and gimbal for the S.A.L.T.

This photo on the right shows the payload system, containing a 50-filter cartridge, and a $600,000 CCD camera called the SALTICAM.

The payload can also carry the Robert Stobie Spectograph (RSS) which is the star of the S.A.L.T.  This instrument, designed by a joint effort of the University of Wisconsin and Rutgers University is designed mainly to study objects in the ultra violet wavelength down to 320 nm.  Some of the SALT project scientists, including my guide for the night, will use the RSS to make detailed studies of planetary nebulas in very distant galaxies to help understand the composition of very early stars.  Planetary nebulas are useful in this regard as they show the physical composition of stars at the last phase of a stars life.  You get to see what stars are made of, at the moment of their deaths, when they have virtually stopped creating new elements.

Since the telescope can rotate 360 degrees in azimuth, it can cover 71% of the sky at some point during a year.  Astronomers queue up targets for observation well in advance, and computers are used to schedule observations based on when a target will be observable, taking into consideration the moon and obstruction by the tall CCAS tower.

The observatory itself contains the telescope, control room, mirror coating room, and a payload workshop.  They also have room located under the primary mirror to house a future spectroscopic instrument currently under development.   The main observatory bay, with the telescope, has many temperature and humidity sensors.  The entire environment is controlled by computers to regulate the interior observatory temperature and humidity one full day in advance.  Meteorological instruments and computer modeling predict the nights observing conditions and use air conditioning and dozens of louvers to match the observatory dome’s environment.  As a side-note, the louvers are computer controlled in such a way as to prevent moonlight from shining on the primary.  As the moon moves across the sky (or as the dome rotates) louvers that open towards the moon close and those on the opposite side on the dome open.  Very clever!  You can see all the louvers in my photo of the outside of the observatory above.

The telescope’s massive mechanical tracking system, primary mirrors, complex environmental controls, and optical imaging systems are all controlled from one control room.  The optical-fiber feeds from these components are kept at the same temperature by keeping them, and their computers at the same temperature with an ethylene glycol cooling system.  The final results of these computers are then fed into the warm control room.

Me (far left) in the control room

Me (far left) in the control room

Only two people, an equipment operator and a project astronomer, can operate the S.A.L.T..   This gives you some idea of the computing power of the whole system.

Computer workstation

Computer workstation

The SALT team is based out of Cape Town, South Africa, which is a 4-hour drive.  An astronomer and engineer take turns spending a week at the observatory, lodging in a small hostel located below the telescope hill.  The hostel includes a decent astronomical library, computers, pool table and a staffed kitchen.  I had dinner with the night’s astronomers and the kitchen staff made me a midnight lunch-box to take up to the SALT.  There was plenty of coffee, tea, and caffeinated cold drinks.

Like any new complicated system, there are bound to be bugs.  Many of the environmental defects and system bugs have been worked out, but two main problems are preventing the SALT from being completely active at this time.  The RSS (spectroscopic imager) which was designed to record ultra violet had a major flaw; it’s main lens  absorbed ultraviolet light instead of passing it!  This was due to a manufacturing error in which a plastic mixing container was used to hold the glue that held the lens layers together.  This glue (which was designed to pass ultraviolet light) absorbed traces of the plastic mixing cup.  After a few months, the plastic molecules changed (probably due to ultraviolet exposure) and began to absorb ultraviolet light, thus blocking the very light the astronomers needed to record!  The SALT team sent the camera back to Wisconsin where a new lens was built.  It took almost a year to solve the problem, but they finally created a perfect lens that had no contamination.  Then they broke it!  A technician indivertibly used the wrong kind of lens cleaning spray, a Freon based solvent, which froze the lens and cracked it.  It’s taken more than 6 months to build a new one, which should be shipped to South Africa any day now.

A mirror fragment from the S.A.L.T

A mirror fragment from the S.A.L.T

A few weeks ago, while changing out one of the mirror segments they dropped it at the only part of the operation that had no safety controls to prevent a mirror from falling.  It smashed to the floor and shattered.  They now have 3 spare mirror segments left.  I was given a piece of the broken one as a souvenir!

The other problem is that the SALT design team hired a non-astronomer to design the collimation laser, the CCAS.  Remember the laser shines continuously at the primary during tracking, to keep the optical payload at precise focus.  This engineer installed a laser that worked at 673 nm, the same spectrum as ionized sulfur, a key element when analyzing star composition!  Now, when they look at a star, that entire region of light is awash in laser light. It’s back to drawing board on that one.

So while much of the work at SALT is still faultfinding and correcting design flaws, here’s one of the first photos taken by SALT of 47 Tucanae, before the scope’s adaptive optics are operational.

http://www.salt.ac.za/fileadmin/files/telescope/first_light/PR47tuc.jpg

The hill that the S.A.L.T. sits on a barren rocky hill.  In the following photo you can see the small buildings that house the astronomer’s living quarters and the large S.A.L.T. observatory to the left.  The hill is also home to several other telescopes.

SAAO Site

SAAO Site

The oldest telescope is the 1.9 meter (almost 6 feet) diameter built in the 1930′s.

1.9 meter SAAO telescope

1.9 meter SAAO telescope

SAAO-1-9 meter scope counterweights and drive system

SAAO-1-9 meter scope counterweights and drive system

This beautiful scope, now retrofitted with the most advanced digital cameras and spectroscopic imagers still get a lot of use, but astronomy students from all over South Africa and beyond.

Sunset at the S.A.L.T.

Sunset at the S.A.L.T.

So I drove 16 hours in pristine clear skies to a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit the Southern African Large telescope and spend a few days under the most incredible skies in the world with my own telescope.  I arrived at 7PM and by 8PM the entire sky clouded over and winds picked up to 30 kph.  This stayed the same until the night I went up to the SALT, where the winds rose to 48 kph with gusts to 60.  The whole sky was clouded over the whole night, and all the next day and night too.

Finally at 0430AM when I was packing up, the sky cleared and the winds stopped completely.  As I drove across the Karoo on the way home, the whole sky was filled with stars and its inky black background.  I was in awe at the incredible beauty of the night sky, but also terribly disappointed at not being able to do any observing with my scope and especially the S.A.L.T.

One note… if you ever go to a location with a darkness rating of Bortel 1, on a moonless night and the sky completely overcast, you will find yourself in total darkness like being in a deep cave.  It’s an incredible experience as I felt my way across the parking lot to find my car and could not see anything.  Not even my hand 2 inches from my face.  I literally walked into my car, bumping my shin on its bumper.  I had to search with my hands to locate the door and finally get some light from the interior.  Wow.

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